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If you’ve ever looked into pearl grading and found yourself confused, you’re not alone, and the problem isn’t you. Blame it on the system or, more specifically, the lack of one.
Whereas many consumers are familiar with the Gemological Institute of America’s International Diamond Grading system which standardizes the grading of diamonds by the 4Cs (cut, clarity, color and carat), there is no such institution for pearls. Further complicating matters, pearls are valued by seven qualities: luster, surface quality, size, shape, color, nacre thickness and matching. That means there’s even more room for subjective opinions.
Bearing all that in mind, the most important thing to understand when comparing pearl grades: Every company in the world that sells pearls uses a grading system that they themselves arbitrarily created.
Since we’re talking about grades, let’s use a simple analogy: Imagine taking a single-question test in school. You give the exact same answer to a dozen teachers and you get back … a dozen different grades! Some use letter grades ranging from A to AA to AAA to AAAA, some use numbers, some even use words they’ve cooked up, but each teacher assigns a different, arbitrary grade—to the exact same answer.
No wonder you’re confused.
How does this happen among pearl sellers? When pearls are purchased wholesale, a range of quality and price is always presented. Companies determine which pearls fall into their respective grading categories. One company’s AAA grade can be another's A grade simply because one is selecting from a more expensive, higher range of pearl. The highest-rated pearl from one seller might not meet the minimum threshold of what another seller would even carry.
Once you understand this about pearl grading, the most important thing to remember when shopping for pearls is that the company’s experience and reputation are far more critical than the stated grades.
Here are some factors to consider when considering a pearl company:
- Customer word of mouth, easily found online
- Industry reputation
- Years in business
- Training and education
- Relationships with producers
I've spent more than 25 years in the global pearl trade and have built Pearl Paradise around direct relationships with the farms that produce these pearls. My wife Hisano works alongside me, sourcing from the world's finest producers and creating one-of-a-kind pieces through her little h line. We're both happy to answer questions about grading, sourcing, or anything else through a personal consultation.
When you own pearl jewelry that meets our standards, you can be confident that you own true quality and value.
About the Author
Jeremy Shepherd
Founder, Pearl Paradise | President, The Pearl Association of America
I founded Pearl Paradise in 1996 and Pearl-Guide.com in 2004. I serve as president of The Pearl Association of America and authored Pearls As One, the pearl industry's leading certification course, now translated into 10 languages.
Over 30 years in the pearl trade, I've sourced pearls from farms across Japan, French Polynesia, Australia, China, Fiji, Mexico, and the Philippines, and produced three pearl industry documentaries: Pearls the Documentary, The Tahitian Pearl, and Power of Pearl. I have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, Financial Times, Newsweek, Entrepreneur Magazine, Freakonomics Radio, Inc. Magazine, and many trade publications.
